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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.